In Mubarakpur, where the loom remains part of family life, young entrepreneur and weaving unit owner Arfat Anwer Ji is creating a more direct path between the artisan and the customer. A fourth-generation brocade artisan, he keeps traditional Banarasi weaving at the centre while using documentation, social media and boutique collaborations to make the process and the people behind the cloth more visible.

SPECIALISES IN

Pure Katan silk, satin silk Banarasi, Kora silk and Kadua motifs. His unit works in small batches, balancing traditional brocade techniques with contemporary colour, drape and wearability. Each saree is handwoven, with the design built into the cloth rather than added later.

THE PLACE

Mubarakpur, Azamgarh District, Uttar Pradesh. A historic weaving cluster known for pure silk sarees, satin grounds, intricate Kadhua motifs, zari borders and substantial pallus. Here, looms remain part of family homes and weaving knowledge passes through observation, practice and inheritance.

THE ROLE

As both entrepreneur and unit owner, Arfat Ji works across the full journey of a saree. He helps select the silk, develop designs, coordinate looms, monitor quality and present the finished piece directly to customers. His work gives the artisan unit greater control over how the saree is made, described and valued.

THE WEAVE

Katan provides a smooth, compact ground. Satin brings depth and lustre. Kora offers a lighter, crisper drape. Kadua motifs are formed individually using supplementary silk or zari threads, allowing each buti or floral form to emerge with clarity and definition.

THE NEW ROUTE

Rather than relying entirely on the traditional gaddidar network, Arfat Ji uses social media, process documentation and boutique partnerships to connect the loom with the wearer. The customer sees not only the finished saree but also the hands, time and knowledge behind it. This reflects a wider movement helping young weavers build enterprises and interact with markets directly.

THE MAKING

The design is drawn, translated for the loom and woven line by line. The warp is set, the silk and zari are prepared and every motif is checked as the cloth grows. The time required depends on the material, the density of the design and the number of motifs worked by hand.